Norway Bound

Stiklestad National Cultural Center

2008-08-17T16:54:00.012-05:00

We spent nearly three hours at Stiklestad and took in only a fraction of its attractions. (Note the pink arrows on the Stiklestad Map.) After visiting the church and cemetery,

we
walked

down
the
street

to
the
culture
center.

(on the right)

There we walked through an exhibition portraying the time before and after the Battle of Stiklestad. The "walking drama" – called "The Changing Face of Faith" – represented Norway's transition from paganism to Christianity and recognized the Battle of 1030 as the turning point.

Later we toured

the center's
upper level with
historical displays
and explanations,

including life-sized
mannequins and a
mini-replica of the
Nidaros Cathedral.

The
vibrant
floral
display

at the
foot of

Saint
Olav's
Monument

drew us
up the hill

to the place where Olav's body was kept the night after the Battle of Stiklestad

Alongside of the church (in the background), this hilltop is a most symbolic site. The first known monument here was a wooden cross with an iron cross on top. Later, the wooden cross was replaced with a brick monument and the original iron cross on top. This current monument is the oldest known public monument in Norway. Erected in 1807, it is the only one that pre-dates the adoption of the nation's constitution in 1814.

(Fun facts from the center's brochure)

All the historical impressions and physical climbing tired out many in our group. As a graduate of Scandinavian Studies, I felt compelled to take in ONE more climb before giving into rest.

Kjell accompanied me to
"The Mounted King" statue
which stands above the open air theater – the place where thousands gather annually for "Saint Olav Drama."

The re-enactment – of the religious and cultural conflict between Olav Haraldsson's supporters and their opposition – is the highlight of the 10-day Saint Olav Festival,

which includes concerts, presentations, a medieval market and other activities for "kids of all ages."

"Some day..." I mused – as an ongoing student of Scandinavian Studies – "I too will partake!"

With
that,

we loaded
into the van

to drive onward...

...taking note of the adjacent site where archaeological excavation will soon begin.

Our guide
had noted that

this site,

once planned as a future parking lot, showed signs of being a viking burial ground. What then? Time will tell as workers continue to expand and draw in tourists to Stiklestad National Culture Center.

Meanwhile,
we watched
the wheat fields
go by in
Trøndelag –

Norway's
bread
basket.

Graveside Surprise

2008-08-17T14:24:00.017-05:00

From the
church,

we walked
across
the street

and down the
tree-lined way

to the
cemetery

where –

through the iron gates –

we could see two headstones marking the graves of Lena's
father,
stepmother and
two half-sisters.

On our walk, Tora confided a bit of worry about the state of these graves.

She noted family members are responsible for floral care and to her knowledge,

no one attends this site of her grandparents and unwed aunts.

"An angel

took care

of your

worry,"

I replied

upon our arrival

as the group stood amidst the blooms of this Graveside Surprise.

Gustav (Mikalsen) Bjertnes
December 8, 1862 to August 23, 1914

Laura Bergithe (Eilertsdatter) Bjertnes
December 19, 1868 to October 24, 1955

Klara Sofie Bjertnes
September 22, 1907 to May 26, 1920

Ingeborg Bjertnes
November 6, 1911 to January 2, 1968

Good-Bye to Our Guide

2008-08-17T14:03:00.012-05:00

Our guide noted the Stiklestad Church has gone through numerous restorations.

On one occasion, workers discovered that underneath a previous wall covering lie remnants of paintings that earlier congregations had attempted to erase and cover. Today stains of those attempts are visible between the high-set windows and

the eye-level

wall

paintings

of

Christ's

life.

As we
processed out,

we noticed

the exposed log
ceiling beams,

the elaborate
pipe organ
in the church balcony,

as well as

the wood-carving

and stone work

at the front door –

where we

bid our

Guide
"Good-bye."

Baptismal Font

2008-08-17T13:47:00.008-05:00

Our guide then directed us to the font where many generations of Norwegians have been baptized into the Christian faith heralded by Saint Olav.

With the establishment of the Christianity into Norwegian culture, the Church in Rome instigated baptisms and other holy sacraments. The Church held that all people are born "unclean" with Original Sin. To enter a house of worship, the Church maintained that one must be "clean." The way to cleansing happens via the waters of Baptism.

Our guide explained evolutionary points in the baptismal tradition.

"This has been used
for 100 years,"

he said lifting
the golden pitcher
and casting it aside.
Then he picked out
the golden bowl
(under the pitcher) saying,

"This is a mere 400 years old"

and he flipped it behind him.

Our guide then
spread out his hands
over the stone font
saying,

"THIS is the original –

nearly
one thousand
years old."

He contrasted modern and ancient baptismal customs.

Today a child is brought to the church within its first year or two after birth. A parent holds the child in a prone position with its head over the bowl. The pastor takes the pitcher and pours water onto the child's head, usually wetting his hair and wiping it with a cloth.

This deep font served a different purpose. In the early church, baptism was commonly performed by submersion. Infants were held by their feet and dunked head first into the font three times while the priest prayed: "I baptize you in the name of the Father, Son and Holy Spirit."

Our eyes grew wide at the thought. Our guide offered, "It was quite fast and safe. Few, if any, children drowned. What usually got them was the cold weather."

He explained that no matter what the time of year, ancient families rushed a newborn from the birth bed to the church for immediate baptism. While the baby often weathered the dunking, improper swaddling and carting the child home through the raw elements may have caused illness leading to infant death.

Why the rush to baptize?

Should an unbaptized person die, he or she cannot enter Heaven. In ancient times – with no antibiotics or immunizations to treat common illnesses, infant mortality was high. Church clergy urged families to save their little one's souls before their bodies had a chance to perish.

Our guide explained – during the Middle Ages – the Church taught that not only was a newborn "unclean," but so was a pregnant woman for carrying a child conceived with Original Sin. As a result, congregations built benches along the exterior walls of the church building where pregnant women could sit outside to listen to the worship service because they were forbidden to enter the holy sanctuary.

Our womanly eyes grew wider yet!

Our guide said that those benches can still be seen on some of Norway's ancient stave churches. He noted the Reformation of 1517 sparked changes in many traditions as the Norwegian church pulled away along with Martin Luther. Today pregnant women are honored for the life which grows within them. The church welcomes these women inside its doors blessing them for carrying the Gift of Life.

Our guide welcomed the ladies to come forward for a photo to mark the Gift of Life celebrated circa 110 years ago when their grandmother – Marie Oline Gustavsdatter Bjartnes – was sprinkled at the Stiklestad Baptismal Font.

Eternal King of Norway

2008-08-17T13:35:00.000-05:00

Our guide exuded passion for this place of Stiklestad:

its history,
present
and future

in connection with Norway's
Patron Saint Olav.

He explained how Olav was a descendant of Viking King Harald Fairhair. Olav's father, Harald Grenske, died before his birth. Olav was raised by his mother and stepfather on a grand farm in Ringerike. At age 12, Olav left on his first viking voyage.

According to the saga, Olav was of medium height, strong and stout, bold and well-spoken, and emerged victorious in several battles as a young sea king. Some say Olav inherited the Fairhair clan's characteristics of greed, savagery and licentiousness as well as the abilities to organize and rule.

Olav's passion became redirected when at age 18 he was introduced to the Christian faith and baptized, most likely while voyaging in France.

Before the time of Harald Fairhair, Norway was unorganized and loosely divided into small kingdoms. Toward the end of the ninth century, Harald Fairhair had unified a Norwegian state. The century following his death was marred by power struggles between provinces and families. Two earls rose to rule.

In 1014, Olav and his ships were at Gibraltar. He heard a voice saying: Return to your allodium, for you shall be King of Norway for eternity. He did not understand, but realized it as a sign to head north. Olav Haraldsson began to consider himself the rightful Norwegian royal heir.

(Our guide directed our eyes to another sign: this mural under the south window in the Stiklestad Church which displays Olav falling asleep before his final battle in 1030 and dreaming of his being hailed the king to successfully unify Norway.)

In 1015, Olav returned from his viking voyages, was soon declared king, went onto challenge the Earls of Laude and their allies and came out victorious in a battle near Nesjar on Palm Sunday 1016.

Although Olav was hailed king, Norway remained divided, politically and religiously. Powerful chieftains controlled the vast areas of land. The Viking era was nearing its end. Old chieftains could no longer rely on overseas naval raids to enrich themselves. Power transferred to those utilizing the land's agricultural resources.

Olav's reign emphasized law and order to an extent greater than his predecessors. Offenders who tried to buy freedom with gold and riches were decapitated. Thieves lost their hands and feet. "With sharp weapons, he did away with many vikings," said his court poet in the poem Årvedråpa.

That was just the start of the vendetta against Olav. Area farmers turned against Olav when this king took his Christian faith to a new level, outlawing pagan cults with the harsh penalties, even death, for those in defiance.

Together with Bishop Grimkjell, Olav laid the foundation for the organized Norwegian church, including Christian courts, provisions for annual freeing of serfs, the outlawing of polygamy and abandoning newborns in the forest, as well as harsh penalties for rape and robbery of women.

All this came to a head in 1028 when Danish King Canute the Great made an alliance with several petty Norwegian kings. Canute sent gifts to people around the country to offer friendship and as an undermining chance to conquer the country. The chieftains saw a victory by Canute as an opportunity to regain freedoms that Olav had revoked. Their powerful allegiance with the Danish king forced Olav north into exile in Gardarike (Russia). Canute was hailed king. He installed 17-year-old Håkon Eiriksson as governor of Norway. The following summer Håkon drowned.

Olav saw his chance to recapture the throne. He had no significant allies. His brutality had made him unpopular among chieftains, peasants and his own family for having exterminated some as rival heirs. Yet his passion to unite Norway held strong.

Olav gathered an army on his was through Sweden and in July 1030 crossed the Verdal mountains into Trøndelag.

Peasant armies rose up to protect their lives and property against Olav, the King whom they felt had acted unjustly against them. On July 30, 1030, Olav and his army reached Stiklestad where they faced twice their number in peasant soldiers. The King's army soon decimated. According to legend, Olav died of ax wounds to his foot and throat and a spear to his gut.

Miracles began occurring immediately. During battle, a soldier – who inflicted one of the king's mortal wounds – had himself received a cut to his hand. When the soldier later came into contact with the king's blood, his wound no longer needed bandaging and healed quickly (as depicted in this mural below).

Supporters of Olav secretively moved his body to Trondheim for burial in the dunes of the river Nidelva. Before long at his gravesite, people began reporting miracles: sight restored to the blind; hearing to the deaf; speech to the mute.

To pagans, these signs represented a divine king. To Christians, a saint. "By the King's consent and verdict of all people," Bishop Grimkjell sanctified Olav. A spring soon burst forth at Olav's first burial site. Those who were ill and drank of its waters reported restored health.

A year after the battle, Olav's body was exhumed and found fresh with its hair and beard having kept growing. Word spread. Thousands throughout Europe began pilgrimaging to Trondheim for healing, Christian conversion and worship. A century later, Olav's body was laid in the Nidaros Cathedral.

Following, Olav's death, the Danish king's mistress and son were sent to rule Norway. Their authoritarian ways were not to the chieftains' liking. Thus, the perception of Olav changed. Things he had accomplished were appreciated in hindsight. Rallying around St. Olav provided a valuable tool for unifying a new Norwegian state and church in the centuries to come.

Our guide put his arms over the Olav under the south window and then raised his arms to the Christ mural behind the altar to explain, like Christ, Olav lost his life as an earthly king so that a nation could be born – one where he would reign eternal.

On July 30, 1030, a new unified nation of Norway took root with Saint Olav as "Rex Perpetuss Norvegia" – the Eternal King of Norway.

(Note: In commemoration, the people raised an altar here on the spot where the king fell in that Battle of Stiklestad.)

Stiklestad Church

2008-08-17T13:11:00.005-05:00

We arrived at Stiklestad,

parked in the lot and

had a look

around the grounds

while Kjell went

to get the guide

who would lead us

inside the church.

I was amazed

at the development

of this Cultural Center

since my first visit here

thirteen years ago

in the Fall of 1995.

We proceeded

across the street

to the church

where Grandma Lena

had celebrated milestones

early in her life.

We
looked
back

and

up

at
the
steeple,

noticed

the

ancient

masonry

work,

and

the

tools

of

repair

as

we

waited

at the back door of the Stiklestad Church.

The Birch Avenue

2008-08-17T12:56:00.004-05:00

From the Verdal Chapel, we set off on our journey to the Stiklestad Church – where Grandma Lena was baptized and confirmed.

To get there, we drove a paved road lined with birches and bordered by a pedestrian path, which locals refer to as "Bjørkealleen" – the longest birch avenue in Northern Europe.

Groundwork for this wonder began more than two hundred years ago under the direction of officer and architect Lorentz Diderich Kluwer. At the turn of the 20th century, locals opted to redesign and plant only birch trees along the avenue, which then became affectionately referred to as Norway's Champ’s Elysees.

As we drove the three-kilometer route, we watched people rollerblade, bike and walk The Birch Avenue.

Verdal Chapel

2008-08-17T12:08:00.000-05:00

While planning this trip, I wrote Tora about our attending a Sunday service in Grandma Lena's childhood church at Stiklestad. I did this for two reasons: the family's historical connection and the cultural experience to understand Norway's church today.

Upon our arrival, Tora explained that Stiklestad holds services bi-monthly – this was an off week. She suggested attending the 11 AM service at the nearby Verdal Chapel and then continuing over to Stiklestad for a tour.

In
the
church
yard,

before
the
bells
rang,

Tora showed us her parents'

(Lena's sister and husband's)

resting place.

Inside we received a surprise.

The presiding pastor greeted us. Learning we were American, he explained he'd just returned from a six-week stint in Texas serving the Norwegian sailors stationed in Houston.

He apologized for this service being held in the community's native tongue adding, "I'm not sure how much you'll understand, but you are welcome!"

During the call to worship, the pastor offered an official "Welcome to our Minnesota visitors." Before launching into his sermon, he gave a brief summary in English. And before calling the congregation forward for communion, he also invited us to part take in the bread and the wine.

Following the service, church members served "kaffe." We each took a coffee cup and a sweet.

While chatting, the pastor told us that he and his wife had also stopped in Minneapolis to visit with her relatives in residence.

Upon his return to Norway, he was asked to stand in here for the regular pastor who was on vacation.

So by
divine
intervention,

we made another
unique connection
on our tour –

this time at the
Verdal Chapel.

Knitted Canvas

2008-08-17T10:35:00.000-05:00

We soon learned Tora's talents extended beyond paints and brushes.

She carried in an armload of hand-knit sweaters to the coffee nook.

She confided, "These ladies are so warm and wonderful. I wanted to give each one something, but I hadn't time for much. I went up to the loft and found these."

She held out the sweaters. "It's not much, but maybe you each can find one that suits you?"

"Did you make these?" I asked. And she nodded, "Some, a long time ago."

"They're beautiful," I said. "Now each one of us will have a Norwegian sweater to take back home."

By this time, half our group had purchased her own Norwegian sweater. The other half wasn't convinced about such an expenditure. When daughter found one particularly beautiful sweater in the Hurtigruten gift shop, she showed her mom and coaxed, "You have to get a sweater to take home and wear to church!"

Mom tried on the sweater, admired its fit in the mirror, and then checked the price tag. As she put it back on the rack, Mom said, "You wanna bet?"

The sweater-modeling sessions, over the next two days, were different.

No tags attached!

Each of us tried on various sweaters and found a place
in our suitcase to pack a

Knitted Canvas –

a gift from (this gal)
Cousin Tora's Gallery.

Tora's Gallery

2008-08-17T10:03:00.000-05:00

Later this morning, Tora and Kjell arrived back at Our House to guide us on the day's tour.

I asked her about the artwork displayed throughout the home.

Tora confessed a great passion for painting – a hobby she took up as a newlywed.

Kjell said, "I had my hobbies and she needed her own."

Because Tora enjoyed art, Kjell encouraged her to try painting – buying her supplies and supporting her in classes.

Tora said she found the hobby relaxing, especially after coming home from her work as a psychiatric nurse.

Over the years, she's produced numerous paintings and needed a place for their display.

"We noticed them in your other home and here," I said. "Little
did we know that
we'd be treated to
Tora's Gallery."

Of Our House

2008-08-17T09:16:00.004-05:00

O
n

t
h
i
s

l
e
i
s
u
r
e
l
y

m
o
r
n
i
n
g

we

took

t
i
m
e

to

explore

the

interior

Of

Our

House.

Kindness Continues

2008-08-17T06:57:00.005-05:00

"Maybe you'd like
to wash clothes?"

Tora said
continuing
the home tour.

She led us down
the steep steps

into the cellar
and showed us

a brand new
washing machine
waiting to spin
its first load.

This morning
I rose early

to follow
her directions

for collectively
cleaning clothes.

Using the lower door,
I carried

the laundry basket
outside –

as

the

sun

rose

over

Bjørga –

to the
laundry
post
where I
hung up
our wear

for a
fragrant

Trøndelag

outdoor
freshness!

(How 'bout
our ladies'
photo humor
here?)

Our House

2008-08-16T20:16:00.013-05:00

"We
bought
you
a house,"

Tora told
us

when
we
arrived

earlier
today.

"We thought
you'd be
more
comfortable
staying here

all together

than
spread out
among the
relatives."

Then she smiled

and went on
to explain

the incredible
circumstances

of the purchase

just two
months ago.

The owner –

Tora's school-
days classmate –

had recently lost her
husband and desired
to move into town.

Tora and Kjell
had been considering
moving to Verdal to
spend retirement
in their childhood
hometown.

This home's location – with the Trondheimsfjord view – as well as its spacious living areas and multiple bedrooms enticed the couple to buy the home now, giving them time to fix the place to fit their future needs.

As a bonus, they could house us – their six family members visiting from America – for a few days in August.

Kjell told us

he had just

one qualm

with the

whole plan.

He asked us to write a letter of recommendation to the neighboring farmer explaining why it's essential for him to sell a piece of the barley field to Kjell who needs space to build a proper garden.

To Bjørga

2008-08-16T19:01:00.007-05:00

Shortly
after
6 PM,

our driver
hopped
into
the van
and
prepared

to

take

directions

for
transporting
us

around

the

hills

hugging

the

fjords

past

the

golden

grain

fields

To

Bjørga –

The

Hillside.

Better Homes and Gardens

2008-08-16T16:23:00.004-05:00

Following our
afternoon snack

and later
after dinner,

Tora encouraged
us to relax

before the
next leg of
our journey.

From the deck,

we strolled

into the

living quarters,

and
realized

that
this
place –

inside
and
out –

would
make

be a great
feature

for

Better
Homes
and
Gardens!

Verdens Beste

2008-08-16T14:18:00.006-05:00

Out on the deck, Tora served afternoon "kaffe," including not only cups of the dark, hot beverage,
but also a
delightful dessert – whipped up by their grown son – for us, their American family.

As we tasted this light-meringue cake filled with pudding and topped with slivered almonds,

we understood why the recipe is a famous one from the Trøndelag region...

...so
scrumptious,

it's know
simply as:

The World's Best.

(Click on photo to enlarge recipe.)

Gargantuan Gardeners

2008-08-16T14:15:00.008-05:00

Cousin

Tora

and

her

husband

Kjell

overwhelmed
us

with
their

gardening
talents.

From
the
lush
hedge

enclosing

thriving

plants

to

the

backyard

orchard

with

ruby
red

cherries.

Puttering
in

his
vegetable
garden,

Kjell
pulled

long
orange
carrots

for
our
dinner...

...and
credited
Tora

with
the
flower
fettish

extending
from

their
home's
walls

to
the
pots

and
even

in the
furniture
fabric

of their
cozy home

that
long ago

served
as the
village
store.

The Rental Van

2008-08-16T13:33:00.009-05:00

Alas,
it was time

to walk to
the AVIS office,

fill out
paper work

and get
the keys

for our
rental van.

Then we
walked
farther

toward
the river,

past
Peppe's Pizza,

to a service
station lot

for a
BIG
surprise –

a nine-
passenger
vehicle

with lots
of room

for luggage.

With such space,
all eight of us
hopped in
to ride to the
train station,

gathered our
luggage from
the storage
lockers,

packed up,

got Kjell's car

and

hit

the

road

going

north

through
tunnels –

some
even

a mile
or more

long –

to our
first stop –

where Avis
had her photo
taken with
the AVIS van –

at our
hosts' home.

Crown Regalia

2008-08-16T11:17:00.009-05:00

Following

our

interior

tour

of

the

cathedral,

we
entered

the
courtyard

of the
Archbishop's
Palace.

The museum here holds the Norwegian crown jewels.

A new exhibition of the Crown Regalia opened in 2006 with King Harald V, Crown Prince Haakon Magnus and Princess Ingrid Alexandra representing the Royal Norwegian lineage.

The princess is the first female heir of the Norwegian throne.

(To illustrate how "real" Norway's royal family is, I love to tell the story about how my host mom's cousin was Prince Haakon Magnus' ninth-grade teacher in the regular public school in Oslo while I was an exchange student in 1983-84. At the time, Brita called the prince a handsome young man with a sense of humor.)

Spontaneous Song

2008-08-16T10:58:00.004-05:00

As our group entered the Chapter House on the northeast side of Nidaros Cathedral, our quiet voices carried in a rolling motion off the curvatures of chapel's stone foundation. I tallied chairs and estimated the house might seat an audience of 70.

I pictured Christmas Eve, a small wedding or some other intimate gathering. To the others, I turned and asked, "Can you imagine a concert here?"

All agreed: That would be something.

Something within this mini-cathedral moved me to sing the first line of the Norwegian table prayer – the one Dan, the boys and I sing at home in three-part harmony. As "I Jesus navn går vi til bords" reverberated off the stone ceilings, I marveled at the magnificence, gained confidence and finished the song with goosebumps.

The comments rang: "Wow!" "You must sing in a choir!" "That was incredible."

"What's incredible," I said, "is this place. It makes an ordinary voice sound extraordinary."

Truly an awesome moment of Spontaneous Song.

Home of Saint Olav

2008-08-16T10:24:00.009-05:00

We
continued
walking

toward
the
tower

of
the
west
entrance

over
the
courtyard

and

turned
around

for a
full view.

Here we zoomed in for a better look at the large rose window and the some of the 59 eight-foot-tall statues depicting the Apostles, Biblical prophets, judges and kings plus Norwegian kings and saints...

ones such as

St. Sunniva (left), an Irish king's daughter whose ship foundered, leaving her stranded at Selje where she was killed by heathen Håken Ladejarl in the year 996. She was the first saint ever declared in Norway.

Love (right), one of three heavenly virtues that stands to the left of the rose window. A group of four secular virtues stands to the rose window's right.

St. Olav (center), who was killed at the Battle of Stiklestad in 1030 and one year later was declared a saint, Norway's Patron Saint. According to legend, his body lies under the high altar of this very cathedral...

a
place

that's
drawn
in

thousands –

maybe even millions –

of pilgrims

over

hundreds

of

years.

Nearing Nidaros

2008-08-16T10:07:00.005-05:00

From a distance,
we heard
the bell tower
chime ten times.

Due to our
leisurely breakfast
at the train station,

we missed the day's
only free English-guided
tour of Nidaros Cathedral.

Therefore
we took
our time

wandering
the grounds,

enjoying
the gardens,

and

strolling
the paths

through
the
cemetary

on up to the
ornate walls–

erected
800
to
1000
years
ago.

We

paused

to

capture

images

similiar
to
photos
taken
by
family
51 years
ago.

On the right in white, Grandma Lena posed with her niece Inger and sister Emma at a side entrance of Nidaros Cathedral during a visit to Trondheim in 1957.

Of Trondheim

2008-08-16T09:57:00.012-05:00

Many people departed the ship in Trondheim.

To keep our group together, we waited for the crowd to loosen before going ashore.

As we came down the ramp, we spotted Cousin Inger and her husband, Kjell.

First they welcomed us with open arms. Then she said, "We began to wonder whether you missed the boat when all the people came off before any of you."

Kjell explained the day's tentative plans.

Those took a slight turn when I explained: "First we need a small breakfast, off the expensive ship."

In his car,
he made two trips

to get all of us

to the city train
station where

we could store
our luggage
in coin-operated
lockers,

eat

in

the

ala carte

café

and

exchange

more

American

money.

Then

we

were

ready

to

take

a

walking

tour

in

Norway's

ancient

capital

Of

Trondheim.

Rise and Shine

2008-08-16T08:02:00.000-05:00

Saturday
morning,

we
woke

to

our
last

porthole
view.

In

the

room,

I

scratched

a

few

notes...

and

the

rest

packed

to

depart!

Time to Rise and Shine in Trondheim!

The City of Roses

2008-08-15T22:37:00.010-05:00

Just before 10 PM,

our northbound
"Nordlys" ship

met her

southbound
sister ship

"NordNorge"

outside
the
wharf
of
Molde,

also
known
as

The City of Roses.

Earlier this summer back in Minnesota, one our group's ladies met a native of this town which is the administrative center of Møre og Romsdal County.

The Molde resident had said, "When you pull up to the docks, the first thing you will notice is smell of all the roses!"

We looked down and saw why. (See photo above.)

We also watched all the boarding passengers – most of whom had left the ship in Geiranger and taken the eight-hour bus trip for a first-hand experience in the Norwegian mountains.

After

loading

people

and

cargo,

the

ship's

crew

pulled

away

and

continued

north-

ward

with
the
setting
sun

to
its
port
side.

Now I lay me down to sleep...

Traveling Tote

2008-08-15T20:49:00.015-05:00

As our time
on the Hurtigruten
ticked down,
our meeting
with Grandma Lena's
relatives neared.

By 8:30 AM tomorrow,
we'd be
with Cousin Tora.

To prepare,
we met in the one
of our three cabins
that was sizable
enough to work
together.

There

we

each

brought

forth

gifts –

that we had

made,
collected
or
bought –

representing

our home,
workplace,
hobbies
or
state of Minnesota

to distribute

among gift bags

that we

would present

to people

along our way.

In an effort to spread world-wide kindness, each bag was tagged with this message:

The Traveling Tote
with something for You!
Psst... Now it's your turn.
Stick in something. Pass it on.
And... spread kindness anew.

©2007

Brilliant!

2008-08-15T20:44:00.007-05:00

After

coffee,

we went

up on

deck

to

take

in

the

coastal

scenery.

As we snapped photos, a pudgy, middle-aged British man with a camera hanging around his neck engaged us in conversation while he captured images too.

"I travel over the world taking thousands of photos," he explained. "If I'm lucky I get a few good ones that'll make people 'ooh and a-ah' and make a slide show to raise money for charity."

"Would you like me to take your photo?" he asked. Two of us looked at each other, shrugged and said, "Sure."

"Right, then," he took my camera, motioned us together, aimed, shot, looked at the result and exclaimed, "Brilliant!"

About that time, his wife appeared on deck, looked at us and asked him, "What are you doing?"

He muttered something about taking photos. She quizzed him about dinner and they disappeared below deck.

Brilliant

indeed!

Gourmet Meal

2008-08-15T19:30:00.007-05:00

Back in March, when I booked our short passage on the Hurtigruten, the broker forewarned me that meal costs (outside the full-voyage fare) would be billed separately and therefore be expensive.

The Hurtigruten agent told him that we could expect to pay about $100 extra per day – $25 each for breakfast and lunch and $50 for dinner – when using the ship's dining room.

As a group, we ladies opted for the ala carte line for breakfast and lunch, still spending about $12 for a yogurt and pastry and $15 for a soup and/or sandwich lunch.

Our intent was to treat ourselves to one Gourmet Meal on board. Friday afternoon, I booked the six of us for dinner during the evening's first sitting at 6:30 PM.

When the time came, we had trouble making our way. Elevators, stairwells and hallways were fully loaded with passengers preparing to leave the ship which docked in Ålesund at 6:30 PM. We inched through the crowd and eventually met up as a party (down the hallway in the photo above) outside the dining room.

At the front desk, the hostess welcomed us, showed us the seating chart and pointed out our assignment. We found the table. However, it was partially occupied by two women. The hostess came over to explain they were booked for dinner's second sitting at 8:30 PM and asked them to return later.

Our waitresses scrambled for fresh glasses and napkins. Shortly afterward, we were served:

Clipfish Salad

marinated olives,
lime,
garlic vinaigrette

and
a slice
of bread

Liveche Chicken

rice
and
vegetable
pilaf

and

apple and lentil sauce

–and for dessert–

Cheese Cake

berry coulis

Each course was visually appealing, delicious and filling.

Our waitresses came with three bills – one for each room of two. Quiet struck the table as we observed "740 kroner." Quick math turned that into 370 kroner per person. And that amount divided by roughly 5 kroner per dollar gave each of us an estimated cost of $74.

"Norm..." I muttered the name of the agent who helped me book this trip. "...will be getting an email about this when we return! $74 is a bit more than $50!"

We all agreed it's a good thing we had just one day of meals on board.

"Would anyone like more?" the waitress returned asking in a polite manner ready to dismiss us. We shook our heads, "No, thanks."

"Coffee is served in the lounge down the hall," the waitress continued – and by the baffled look on our faces – she added, "It's included with the meal. Please feel free to help yourselves."

And so, after settling up with the hostess, we took our cup –

and pocketed

a souvenir

Dansukker

sugar cube

to go.

To Ålesund

2008-08-15T17:44:00.005-05:00

From

Geiranger,

the

ship

headed

back

through

the

fjord

to the port where

– hours earlier –

the crew had welcomed day-tourists aboard for our scenic adventure

departing

from

and

returning

To Ålesund.

Sailing Sounds

2008-08-15T14:09:00.002-05:00

Here's a cruise clip of horns blowing as ships met. The ringing bell followed by a sightseeing announcement (this one in Norwegian) typified our travel through the dramatic Geiranger Fjord.

We're Here

2008-08-15T13:52:00.016-05:00

by

the

Seven

Sisters

Waterfalls...

with

the

Suitor

Falls

in

the

background...

overlooking
the
water-
front
cabins

(far left)

where
Dan and I
stayed
in 1999...

watching
passengers
leave for
the bus
excursion
through the
mountains
to Molde...

viewing

paddlers

on the

fjord

with the

hairpin-turn

road climbing

the distant

gradient...

taking in

the snow-

capped

mountains

high above

the village

of Geiranger

and

peering

into

Flysdaljuvet

the
infamous
ledged
crevice

(in the
top left
quarter)

where

many

have

climbed

for a

dramatic

portrait –

like this one.

But, today I'm on the ship – and not in the photographer's nest taking Dan's photo – to say: We're Here!

Geiranger Legends

2008-08-15T13:43:00.010-05:00

As we turned
the corner
to enter the
Geiranger Fjord,
I remembered
my ferry ride
through this
narrow passage
nine years ago.

Back then, Dan and I heard tales how local people used to tether their children and livestock to prevent them from falling over the mountain ledges. We also learned that some farms were so remote, residents needed a ladder to reach their homesteads. When the tax collector came calling, the farmer simply pulled up the ladder and the collector went away empty-handed.

Farther in,
the tales
grew greater.

This feature
called

Hell's Crevice

is believed
to have been carved
by the devil himself

in an effort
to hide from
the sun.

And this
tumbling
cascade
on the
fjord's
northside
is known
as the

Seven
Sisters
Waterfalls.

(Count
seven
sprays.)

Legend has it that
the single large waterfalls
on the fjord's south side
(opposite the Seven Sisters)
is the Suitor Falls.

Because he has proposed
to each sister and
been rejected,
he has taken
to the bottle.

Hence, the falls flows
in a bottle-like shape.

On this Hurtigruten cruise
through the Geiranger Fjord,
two of our ladies spotted
(very near his bottle)
what looks like
the face of
the Seven Sisters' Suitor!

No guide I know
has ever pointed out
this feature in the
Geiranger Legends!

Call it: a new discovery?

Film Crew

2008-08-15T12:30:00.011-05:00

At midday, the captain steered closer than normal to shore and invited passengers out on deck to wave at crews (below the white barn) filming the Hurtigruten – maybe for the TV program Norge Rundt?

Later
we
noticed
homes
on
small,
rocky
peninsulas.

As the mountains grew, so did the elevation of the homesteads.

And we continued the mission as Film Crew.

Moving Morning

2008-08-15T10:18:00.004-05:00

Up and down

the deck,

we strolled

under the

lifeboats...

taking in

morning's

freshness –

sea air and

fjord scenery.

The captain

called our

attention to

whales diving

along side

the ship.

Other

fjord

traffic

passed

nearby...

on

this

Moving

Morning.

On Board

2008-08-14T21:32:00.010-05:00

The sun
beamed
through
clouds
as we
sailed
out
toward
sea.

Its rays
lit up

the fjord,

buildings
nestled near
a bridge,

and a boat
speeding
below.

We
wondered
whose
homes
peeked
through
the
lush
hills...

and
marveled
at
this
day's
end...

Sweet dreams to all On Board.

Setting Sail

2008-08-14T20:00:00.022-05:00

At the Hurtigruten building, we got our boarding passes, which doubled as plastic key cards to our rooms.

Then,

we climbed a flight of stairs,

washed our hands with antibacterial gel, walked through a gangway and boarded the ship: Nordlys – Northern Lights.

From the
information deck,
we proceeded to
the elevator and
onto our rooms
at various ends
of the ship.

What you see,
is what you get...

This room was the smallest of our three double bunkers. None of our rooms was anything like those found on The Love Boat
(the 1977-86 TV show).

The bathrooms were also Scandinavian: small but serviceable.

Amazingly, our bags fit into a floor-to-ceiling locker closet behind the door.

Once settled
in our rooms,
we met
in the lounge
on the upper
deck for
refreshments.

and
then
went
outside,

watching
this
Hurtigruten
ship

Setting Sail
along
Norway's
coastline.

To the Wharf

2008-08-14T18:13:00.013-05:00

Early today,
I spoke with
the hotel's
front desk
to arrange
transport
to the
Hurtigruten
pier for
our 6 PM
boarding.

The desk attendant assured me the cab company could provide a vehicle large enough for six ladies and our luggage.

She called Norgestaxi to arrange for our 5:30 PM pickup at the Grand Terminus Hotel entrance.

We returned from shopping, picked up our luggage from hotel storage and waited in the lobby looking for a mini-bus.

Who was more surprised when our driver came inside to wave us out to the sidewalk?

We? At his wagon – with rumble seats – that could fit six people, including the driver.

(Where was our sixth lady to ride - on top?)

Or... he? At the amount of our luggage.

(Hello! We are six tourists boarding the Hurtigruten. Can you say: Norwegian Sea? Brrr!)

For about 15 minutes we wondered whether we were in southern Europe – listening to ranting and raving during his cellphone call to headquarters where the message had gotten screwed up and later watching his wild body language as he waved down another taxi for help.

"Are you from Bergen?" I asked as he drove three of us (and our luggage) through the rush-hour traffic and watched in his rear view mirror for the taxi assisting our three other ladies. He said, "Yes, born and raised here in the city. Excuse me –"

The driver gestured and shouted out his open window at a young woman talking on her cellphone totally oblivious to backing up traffic as she walked in the middle of the oncoming lane.

Upon receiving our driver's "advice" to get out of the street, she shouted back: "Yeah, yeah... whatever."

"You must have seen a lot of changes here through the years," I said attempting to calm his temper.

Our driver replied, "Yeah, yeah... We call that one: Blonde. But some of the others are good."

As we pulled up to the pier, I asked him about tipping - once an uncommon practice among Norwegians. Our driver said, "That's for you to decide. But who would refuse?"

I paid him cash. He made change. I gave it back to him for taking us To the Wharf.

Fiske Torget

2008-08-14T16:06:00.007-05:00

On
our
first
afternoon
in Norway,
we ladies
opted to
shop,
shop,
shop!

Then we
chose

kaffe
og
kake

at an
outdoor
eatery.

Later we

explored

the deep

side

of Bergen's

Fish Market.

And finally,

we dove into

a couple

deep dish

pizzas

at Peppe's

for
a
shocking

40 bucks
a
pop –

before boarding the even spendier (but heavenly) Hurtigruten Coastal Cruiseline.

Bergen Buildings

2008-08-14T14:56:00.003-05:00

Enroute

to

The

Fish

Market,

we

passed

window

gardens,

beautiful

buildings

of

craftsman

architecture

and

homes

perched

high

in

the

hills.

Grand Terminus Hotel

2008-08-14T11:39:00.011-05:00

Cobblestone
streets
lead
up
to
the
doors
of
this
hotel
built
in
1928.

Dark
beams,
anique
furniture
and
oriental
rugs
decorate
its
sitting
room

where
we
six
ladies
posed
for
our
first
tour
portrait.

The
breakfast
room
boasts

mirrored
French
doors,

gold-
trim
wall
edging

and...

a

complex

crystal

chandelier.

An
antique
chair
sports
arm rests
of wood
carved
into
dog heads
and sits
just outside
the library

where we
sent emails home
to our families
after
having feasted
for breakfast
in the dining room
at our
Grand
Terminus
Hotel.

This hotel is great for those with a passion for the past. We found the staff extremely helpful in accommodating our needs for luggage storage while we perused the town and also in contacting a taxi to drive us to the Hurtigruten pier.

Awaken

2008-08-14T09:07:00.005-05:00

to

chocolate

dots,

white

chiffon

and

a

Victorian

view.

On into Bergen

2008-08-13T23:57:00.006-05:00

Before boarding
our plane at the
Keflavik Airport,
we grabbed
a light meal,

wandered
under
the cod
carcass
lights,

and
passed
the
stone
statues
leading
to
the
airport
gates.

Our flight left about 5:30 PM Iceland time and landed two hours later in Bergen at 9:40 PM Norway time.

After clearing the Flesland Airport security, we proceeded to a wall machine that exchanged American dollars into Norwegian kroner. Each of us six had a go. We discovered American greenbacks without the new see-through faces would not work in this machine. We managed exchanging enough money to pay for FlyBus tickets into Bergen's city center.

When we boarded the bus, the time was well past 10 PM.

The city was ALIVE!

Traffic was backed up.

Pedestrians were active.

Again,

we

wondered:

How?

By the time we arrived at the central station, walked to the hotel, got our room keys and laid down to sleep, we figured the last time we'd been in a bed was 35 hours ago.

We slept in before exploring On into Bergen.

Yikes!

2008-08-13T14:07:00.010-05:00

We rode
the double
decker bus
straight
through
the last
50-minutes
of the
Hop-on/
Hop-off
Tour.

We cringed trying to hear

over the loud bus motor

as we plugged our ear phones

into the radio system

and pushed #6 for our choice

of an English explanation

about local landmarks.

We held on tightly to our seats as the driver jostled his passengers to and fro, slamming on his brakes around the city.

The narrow streets with tight corners proved a challenge.

At one point, a taxi driver drove onto the sidewalk to avoid being overrun while our bus driver made a sharp turn.

Other sights from our tour bus windows included:

pedestrians

walking

along the

shoreline

park paths,

Hallgrim's

Church

Steeple

getting

a

makeover,

a statue of Leif Eríkson, an Icelandic/
Norwegian explorer and the first European thought to have landed in North America...

(This monument – which stands in front of the church – was a gift from the United States in 1930 marking the 1000th anniversary of Iceland's parliament.)

various

boat

scenes

at

the

city's

Old

Harbor

a
famous
pictorial
collage
of
faces
on
a
city
wall,

and most strikingly –

our grinning bus driver

as we hopped off

uttering:

Yikes!

for an adventure.

Perlan

2008-08-13T12:28:00.025-05:00

At 10 AM we jumped on the Hop-on/Hop-off Bus.

The entire circular route takes one hour to cover. Throughout the day, the driver covers the same route six times.

Considering this information and our need to catch the early afternoon Flybus back to the airport for our Bergen flight, the tour rep suggested we make two hour-long stops on the Hop-on/Hop-off route before our return to the bus terminal.

As our first stop,
we opted for Perlan
(The Pearl) -
a rotating,
half-dome,
glass-enclosed
restaurant that
sits atop the
city's six
geothermal
hot water
reservoirs.

Outside

Perlan's

entrance,

we viewed

the funky

abstract

band sculptures.

We wandered the grounds taking in the incredible 360º view.

From this summit, we could see
not only the distant capital city but also the surrounding water and mountains.

Closer up, we noticed the heat-releasing ducts and valves protruding from the ground around the city's water storage system.

From the observation deck,

six metal compass maps

helped us align and

identify various landmarks.

Click on this photo
to see Hallgrim's Church
in the background
with its bell tower
encased in
re-constructive
scaffolding.

Later

we

proceeded

under

the canopy

into

the

main

entry...

... and watched

a water fountain

burst forth

in a geyser form.

Upstairs we whirled through
carousals for
souvenir post cards
and selected ala carte items
in the cafeteria's
soup-and-sandwich line
for our lunch.

Because our wanderings exceeded an hour, we missed the 11:30 AM bus and our chance to view the Hallgrim's Church up close.

As a result, we used the extra hour to hike below Perlan, explore the story-telling trails...

check

out

the

man-made

geyser...

sit

in

the

grass...

pen

post

cards

home

and

wait...

to leave Perlan so we could hook up our ear phones on the Hop-on/Hop-off Bus once again.

Into Reykjavik

2008-08-13T09:01:00.006-05:00

Prior to departure, Icelandair representatives had explained that the Keflavik Airport was built on a lava field 40 minutes outside the city. We witnessed that evidence as we drove along the coastal highway – which like many Minnesota highways – was undergoing construction improvements.

The
barren
landscape
made
viewing
outlying
houses
an easy
task.

As we entered the city,
housing became more
dense and automobile
traffic more visible.

Although, looking at
this gas station
advertisement for fuel,
we wondered: How?

This sign shows gas at
166.7 Icelandic kroner
per liter, which –
in the U.S. –
would be equivalent
to $7.57 gallon.

At last, we arrived at the central bus station with the FlyBus. From here, we would start our sight-seeing tour with the Hop-on/Hop-off Bus. At the station's information desk, we learned our first stop would be at The Pearl Restaurant (located in this photo, in the far distance, directly over the wandering driver's head).

Within an hour, we would depart Into Reykjavik for exploration.

And We're Off!

2008-08-13T07:22:00.020-05:00

Late Tuesday afternoon we six ladies met at the Twin Cities airport ready for our 7:20 PM take off.

With e-tickets and passports in hand, we checked in at the Icelandair desk, handed over our bags and proceeded through security toward our flight gate.

A couple hours later, we lifted off on a six-hour journey to Reykjavik, Iceland for the first leg of our two-part journey to Norway. Icelandair has installed screens on the back of each seat which allows passengers a multitude of entertainment choices: movies, infomercials, cartoons, music, video games or flight maps to mark progress toward our destination.

Our ticket purchase included dinner on board as well as coffee, tea and dessert – all keeping with the old-fashioned Scandinavian hospitality.

The only glitch in our flight occurred just before dinner was served two hours into our flight.

Across aisle from us, an Afro-American 20-something woman verbally attacked an Icelandic mother of a 19-
month-old for not "controlling her child." The American woman claimed the child was kicking her seat. The mother argued forcibly against the woman's claim. The situation became uncomfortable when the American woman's male companion stood up, turned around and looked down in a threatening position at the mother and child.

About that time, our meals were served. The Icelandic woman went to get her husband at the front of the plane to iron out the trouble. He spoke civilly to the American woman asking for respect on both sides and took the child up to sit with him. Eventually the situation fizzled out with food in everyone's bellies. As for the American woman – a few rounds of adult beverages brought to her by concerned friends changed her bad attitude. A couple hours after her blowup, she presented a glass of wine to the skeptical Icelandic mother.

Can anyone say: turbulance?

The occasional bouncing of the plane felt like someone was kicking my seat too. Maybe this American gal had never flown before and therefore was on edge. Before the outburst, I watched the child play quietly with cute chunky toys. And after all the hoopla, the child eventually fell fast asleep in the seat next to his mother.

We six gals also

tried to rest

during the journey

so that upon arrival,

we'd be ready

to tour Reykjavik

during our

11-hour layover.

And then, we awoke
to Wednesday
morning's sunlight –

landing at the
Keflavik Airport
about 7:10 AM
local time –

ready for the big
day ahead of us.

Grabbing our carry-ons, scooting through passport control, heading onward to the Flybus, And We're Off on a 40-minute ride to Iceland's capital city.

Hop-on/Hop-off

2008-07-17T21:05:00.013-05:00

Decades ago, my Scandinavian geography professor offered his students 100 bonus points for sending him a post card from Iceland – "the island country that hangs like a jewel from the necklace of the Arctic Circle."

And so, it was with great pleasure that I researched the last booking for our trip – an 11-hour layover in Reykjavik before heading onto Bergen.

Airline agents highly recommended riding the Flybus 40 minutes from the Keflavik Airport into the city center. "We'll keep your checked luggage. Just be sure to take your carry-on with you," each rep said.

Earlier I asked the ladies whether they preferred to tour the city or bathe at the famous Blue Lagoon, since we'd not have time for both. They opted for the city tour.

Today I researched alternatives: the Hop-on/Hop-off Tour or the Grand Excursion.

As I delved into each web page, I discovered the two tours covered roughly the same places. The main difference was flexibility, depth and price.

The Hop-on/Hop-off bus tour runs from 10 AM to 4 PM and can be completed within one-hour should a rider decide for the minimal time allotment. If the rider decides to explore one of the 10 stops in depth, s/he may simply hop-on the next convenient bus. During this tour, English explanations are offered daily. This option costs 2,000 ISK ($25).

The Grand Excursion also offers an English-guided tour, but boasts a more in-depth explanation over a set, two-hour period from 9-11 AM and includes admission fees for all the tour stops. This option costs 3,300 ISK ($42).

I wondered: What are the admission prices? I checked into two famous buildings: Perlan (The Pearl) is a glass-dome, revolving restaurant built atop of the city's geothermal water heaters. Admission is free. The restaurant is top-notch and spendy. But reviews said, the cafeteria located one level down has a 360º observation deck that offers an incredible view of the city and attracts even locals for beverages, Italian ice cream and sandwiches. An on-site tourist shop offers a great selection of souvenirs from playing cards to Icelandic sweaters.

I think I've found our Reykjavik lunch place!

I also checked out Hallgrimskirkja – (Hallgrim's Church) the tallest building and most striking church in Iceland. Its 244-foot tower veers upward in the shape of organ pipes – reflective of the 5,000 piped organ it houses. Admission to this Lutheran church is also free. For those wishing for a lift to the tower top, the cost is 400 ISK ($5).

With that, my decision was easy. In my online cart, I put six round-trip Flybus tickets and 6 Hop-on/Hop-off Tours and checked out!

I can't wait to look for postcards. Maybe I can surprise a retired professor yet!

Rejected; Secured.

2008-07-16T21:42:00.014-05:00

For weeks I've been weighing options with train travel from Trondheim to Lillehammer.

Surfing the web, I discovered an early-morning express train. Choosing the 4-1/2-hour non-stop trip over a 7-1/2-hour one that stops at all the towns along the way was easy. Plus, arriving about 1 PM in Lillehammer would give us the best part of the afternoon to tour southward with my host parents.

My question was: How to return our rental vehicle to the Trondheim agency office that opens at 10 AM? The agent suggested parking the car in their lot, putting the keys in the drop box and heading to the train station. That works if we allow enough time to cover the distance between those two points before the train departs.

To purchase the tickets, I considered an online international train service. They guaranteed reserved seats, offered a $10 insurance option against loss, theft, etc. and promised two-day mail-service of the tickets to my home address for $157 each. All this could be put on my American Express card.

For fun, I googled "NSB" – the Norwegian Rail System – to compare pricing. I discovered a bargain when booking online using an option called "Minipris." For each train departure, NSB reserves a number of select seats that sell for less than half price. The catch? The tickets are good only for the specified train departure, must be purchased at least a day in advance and are non-refundable. These tickets can be collected at the station service desk, ticket machine or on-board, as specified by the buyer upon purchase. When I hesitated, Dan said, "What's trouble? At that (minipris) price, you could buy another if you have to and still come out ahead."

I emailed the ladies for commentary and received a response to try the minipris. By the time I confirmed that these minipris tickets were fully reserved seats, I missed out on the chance to upgrade for an extra $12 to "Komfort" seating offering free coffee and tea, Norwegian newspapers and internet hookup. Those tickets had sold out.

With time ticking, I opted for the 299 NOK ($60) standard seating, entered my vitals and VISA card information (NSB doesn't take American Express) and clicked on "Buy Ticket."

I waited for my card to clear. A message appeared: "Card Rejected!" I double checked the information I'd entered against my card and tried again. Same thing: "Card Rejected!" I tried calling the 1-800 number on the back of the card for assistance and received the message about this card being invalid.

I gave up. Moments later, the phone rang. Dan called me from work. "Did you try making a purchase in Norwegian currency? The VISA company just called me about a transaction."

I assured him that I was indeed trying to book six tickets through the Norwegian Rail System for about $360. He said, "I thought so. Try again. They said it'll go through."

It did.

Rejected; Secured.

In Short: Make sure to alert your credit card company before traveling overseas to ensure your transactions will be accepted.

Small Details

2008-07-14T14:46:00.006-05:00

I am a writer and a photographer – not necessarily in that order.

While volunteering me to lead his relatives on this trip, Dan also assigned me to take lots of photos of houses: rooftops, foundations, walls, floors, windows, fireplaces, trimming details and more.

"How am I going to cover all that with my little camera?" I asked.

In response, he bought me a 2 gigabyte memory stick. (My 1 gig memory stick holds 700+ photos.)

I have two rechargeable batteries with which I alternate use. Each takes up to four hours to recharge and gives about two continuous hours of shooting time.

"I'll need to re-charge my batteries daily for that," I said. "Norway uses two round prongs in their electrical outlets."

Dan got the message and supplied me with a properly equipped converter – half the size of the one I used as an exchange student 25 years ago.

Time and technology change Small Details!

Ask – Again

2008-07-11T15:00:00.004-05:00

After reporting to the ladies on the hotel booking, taxi/shuttle options, luggage storage, train tickets and more, I asked for aid:

"If anyone has the opportunity to practice driving stick-shift: "go-for-it" and let me know. I will try to find an opportunity for myself before we go."

I referred them to the blog entries about our rental vehicle and request for driving help from Tora.

A year ago when our group met, no one claimed recent experience driving a manual-transition vehicle. In recent months, I hadn't had an opportunity to try and hadn't heard that anyone else in our group did. Therefore two weeks ago, I wrote Tora and casually asked for help if someone was able. To cover the bases, I expanded my request to our group.

To my surprise, I received a reply that one gal's last car was a stick-shift. She and another gal planned to practice before the trip.

Hooray!

Now we will work on familiarizing them with road signs and driving rules in Norway – giving us a little more independence and flexibility with that 3-day leg of our journey.

How things open up when one decides to Ask Again.

Bergen Booking

2008-07-06T22:17:00.002-05:00

Over the July 4th weekend, I researched Bergen lodging options online. I weighed the benefits of a money-saving hostel over a classic hotel, emailed both for information on late-night check-ins, a luggage-check area as well as convenience for a shuttle vs. taxi drop-off from the airport located 30-45 minute from the city center.

All things considered, I booked us at a hotel located about 1 km (a 10-minute walk) from the famous Fish Market and next door to the famous composer Edvard Greig's home. Who knows? We may be able to sit out in the hotel garden and catch the end the concert held each evening at Greig's home.

One thing's certain: we will have our one-night hotel "treat" – including an American breakfast the following morning. After checking out of our rooms, the hotel allows guests to stow their bags in a luggage-check room. That means we can travel "hands-free" during our day-tour of the city. We'll also be able to order taxi service to take us out to the Hurtigruten terminal where we'll board our cruise ship and sail that evening.

Through an international hotel website, I secured three rooms for our Bergen Booking!

Ask

2008-06-24T14:57:00.011-05:00

I have a problem. I like to do things myself. It is difficult for me to ask others for help. Why? I don't want to be a bother.

That's one reason it took me two weeks to write Cousin Tora with the latest information on our trip. I thanked her the card she sent in April extending her generous arrangement for lodging, site-seeing and a family gathering during our visit. I answered her questions about us six ladies. I also explained details of our arrival in Trondheim. I included my host dad's appraisal of the rental vehicle situation, including the manual transmission.

I put down my pen and I prayed:

If this trip was reversed – so that I was waiting for incoming visitors – would I help? Of course, if I am able – was my reply.

Most people like to help. But if no one asks, those needs go unknown.

After a long meditation, I wrote on to Tora.

"That means we must practice driving a stick-shift car because such vehicles are not so common here in the USA. If there is someone who can help us with the driving, that would be suitable. But we'll take it all in stride."

I asked Tora's advice on whether we should wait two hours at the pier for the rental agency to open and come with the vehicle or if we could walk on a leisurely site-seeing tour to the station.

A huge burden lifted, as I signed, folded, addressed and mailed this envelope at the post office. Whatever, Tora's reply matters little compared to the giant step taken for me to ASK.

God has a plan!

Vehicle Verification

2008-06-09T08:22:00.004-05:00

Today my host dad sent me a short email verifying the rental vehicle situation.

Whether Svein spoke to the Trondheim representative before or after I did, I may never know. But in his email, Svein verified the Trondheim representative, his telephone number and the reservation number – all information I had gotten four days ago. Svein also noted he used his own credit card to hold the vehicle until we arrived and could present the card used for payment.

He arranged for us to be picked up at Hurtigruten pier with a vehicle for six adults and their luggage. His only regret was that such a rental vehicle comes only with manual transmission...

I am touched and wonder what all this means. One thing is for sure: Time to brush up on stick-shift driving skills or ask for help.

Vehicle Secured

2008-06-05T07:05:00.007-05:00

"There's nothing like waking up to (someone speaking) Norwegian in the morning," Dan chided. I sighed, "Sorry, but I had to call the Trondheim office before 7 AM here to take care of our rental vehicle."

Two weeks ago, I emailed the auto-rental agency in Verdal to confirm prices and availability on a van for six. The representative replied everything was as stated in the quote I received from her in March. However, she did need a credit card number to secure the booking. I refused to send the information in an email and tried the telephone number at the bottom of her message. That number failed. She ignored my next email question for her direct number. Instead, she asked again to email my credit card information.

Frustrated, I called my host dad and asked for the number he used months ago to speak with this Verdal representative. My host dad said he would try calling and get back to me. I waited a week. Then I began researching the Norwegian telephone system and discovered, the number on the Verdal representative's email was "toll free" – in Norway, of course. I googled the Verdal office and found a direct telephone number. I emailed the representative, explained the "toll free" number trouble and asked whether the telephone number I'd found on the website would connect me to her.

She replied: If you want to call direct, use this telephone number xxxxxxxxxxx. I researched the city number and discovered it to be a Trondheim number. Since it was late in their day, I decided to call the next day – today – in our early morning hours.

"Well, at least that's settled," I told Dan. "I talked to a man in the Trondheim office. He listened to my story and understood my concern about sending my credit card number in an email. He took my booking, answered my questions about a drop box for an early return so we could catch the early morning train to Lillehammer, gave me the reservation number and said he didn't need my credit card number.

"What?" I said. He replied: "Just bring your credit card along with the reservation number when you come to the city-center station."

Rental Vehicle Secured!

Web Research

2008-05-25T23:27:00.008-05:00

This past week I've surfed the web looking for answers to questions such as:

How do we spend an 11-hour layover in Iceland?

Perhaps by catching the FlyBus from the Keflavik Airport into Reykjavik?

Maybe riding
a double-decker
bus for
a hop-on/hop-off
tour
around the
capital city?

Or heading to
the Blue Lagoon
hot springs
for a dip
in the
therapeutic
waters?

Another question entails:

How do we travel from the Bergen Airport to the City Center for overnight lodging: Taxi or Shuttle Bus? Much depends on where we decide to stay: in a hostel or a hotel?

If I can secure in a rental vehicle in Trondheim, I will book a single train travel ticket for six of us to traveling from Trondheim to Lillehammer.

Without wheels, we may need to take the train to the relatives – then, a buying Norway Pass for several days travel might be more cost efficient.

Telefon Ringen til Norge

2008-05-16T14:37:00.005-05:00

This morning I called to wish Happy Birthday to my host mom.

I also explained that tonight we would celebrate 17. mai – Norway's Constitution Day – at our church with a Scandinavian Dinner and Music. Dan would be one of two "torsk" masters and I would wear my Norwegian-inspired costume to welcome about 100 attendants and sing the Norwegian table prayer. Gunn told me to greet everyone and then turned me over to my host dad to talk about our upcoming Norway trip.

Many area people I know there want to connect during our last days of this tour. Uncertain, I asked his advice on scheduling. Svein suggested taking the train from Trondheim to Lillehammer.

There the two of them will meet us with a mini-bus – which he will lease and has a license to operate. They will show us around this 1994 Olympic city and its sites, drive us over to Hamar for a look along Lake Mjøsa, through Kongsvinger, and south into the community where they live and work.

They plan to house us at their lake cabin during our stay and will also show us around local points of interest, arrange a gathering and help us through Oslo and to the airport for our departure. He assured me that we can take into account everyone's well-being and stamina when we arrive and make final decisions at that time.

With "pappa's" assurance, I "let go" of these details and felt refreshed – having a clear picture of how to navigate through my responsibilities – after this Telephone Call to Norway.

Trip Tips

2008-05-10T14:42:00.004-05:00

While we're struggling to see Spring here in Minnesota, my host sister emailed these gorgeous "Summer in Oslo" photos taken today outside the new Opera House.

She advised:

A "must see" on your sightseeing through Oslo City
in August! The roof is built like a large hill, coming all the way down to the fjord. (Hard to see in the picture). As you can see from the photo, people have already started having picnics up here. They lie in the sun and relax; or enjoy the view and a cup of coffee.

Notice the wonderful view of the Oslofjord! There will be a new tunnel also which will take care of all the traffic in the area. Then the fjord will be even more beautiful.

It's a Small World

2008-05-06T16:55:00.004-05:00

My sister lives an away hour from me. The end of April, her church hosted an arts-and-craft show. One church member showed her rosemål work there. My sister suggested the woman should check out my blogs – particularly this one on my upcoming Norway trip. The woman did and left a comment on the post entitled Email Encouragment. Here's what I emailed back to Patti Goke.

Hei Patti!

Tusen takk for melding! Koselig til å høre om de norske forbindelsene dine. Takk for forslag om hvordan man skulle leie bil. Det skal jeg ordne ennå til turen vår.

Sorry it's been a while since my last Norway Bound entry. I've got a ton of other writing obligations I'm attending to at the moment. I plan to update this blog soon. We'll be on the Hurtigruten ship during our Geiranger Fjord visit and I believe it stops in Geiranger rather than Hellesylt. My husband and I rode the ferry from Geiranger to Hellesylt and back again in 1999. Unfortunately, we did not tour the community museum. I'd love to see the Peer Gynt carvings... we'll have to play it by ear as the ladies and I have our go this August.

Thanks again for the encouragement sparked by (my sister) Brenda. She knows I love connecting with other Nordic-interested folks. She mentioned you might write and that you'd asked where I'd studied in Norway.

I was at Øvrebyen videregående skole in Kongsvinger (near the Swedish border) as a high school exchange student. I spent my senior year of my UW-Eau Claire studies at Telemark distriktshøgskole (Telemarks Regional College) i Bø working on first year norsk grunnfag (foundational Norwegian) to finish out my Norwegian language and literature studies for my minor in Scandinavian Studies back home.

I've only dabbled in rosemåling at Skogfjorden – Concordia College's Norwegian Language Village in Bemidji. I've studied its history at various points in my life – including for an article I wrote in the Nov/Dec 07 issue of the Lake Country Journal Magazine on a Scandinavian Style house in the Nisswa area.

OH MY GOSH! I just reviewed those notes and realized YOU were the Myklebust's rosemåler! I have written about your incredible work – on their catwalk, front entry and range hood: "Næmen, har du sett på maken?" (Have you ever seen the likes?)

It truly is a small world.

Hilsen fra
Wendy

Cousin Tora

2008-04-18T15:24:00.003-05:00

The long awaited letter from Cousin Tora arrived. She welcomed our group to the Trøndelag area and laid out a plan for our time with Grandma Lena's relatives as well as possibilities to see places dear to the woman who immigrated from Norway in 1904.

True to Norwegian hospitality, Tora urged us not to worry about lodging during these days because various relatives offered to keep us in their homes.

We are blessed – once again.

Voucher Delivery

2008-04-14T18:25:00.005-05:00

Our cruise tickets arrived special delivery this morning – four months earlier than anticipated.

Perhaps writing a letter of appreciation to the supervisor of our travel agent expedited this process? I'm not sure.

But now, I can peruse the maps included in the packet and determine how to navigate our departure from the heart of Bergen as well as our landing in Trondheim.

Collection

2008-03-28T18:45:00.005-05:00

"Just a note to let you know I've received envelopes from everyone. Thank you so much for helping fill in the blanks."

I wrote this in today's email to the journey's ladies.

I went onto explain about research on vehicle rental, train fares and schedules as well as the wait for a response from our Verdal-area relative. I closed the briefing:

God has a plan! I'm working hard to find it.
With this week's report,
Wendy

Sticker Shock

2008-03-26T22:10:00.006-05:00

Vehicle rental prices in Norway are startling.

The lowest quote I received was for a three-day van rental. That would cover our needs during our stay in the Trondheim-Verdal area while visiting relatives and seeing places dear to Grandma Lena. The cost translates into $692 and includes 600 "free" kilometers or 372 miles. Gas costs translate to $8.94/gallon.

Of course, when we divide out these costs out between six people over three days, the price per person per day is less overwhelming. Nonetheless, we come to appreciate the relative "cheap" travel costs at home in the USA. We also understand the European push for public transportation.

E-mail Encouragement

2008-03-24T16:06:00.007-05:00

A few email messages encourage me.

One friend spent three weeks last summer traveling Norway and booked all her tickets and lodging by using her computer. "No need to do any work with a travel agent," she wrote and offered hints about looking for bed-and-breakfast type accommodations which are much more affordable than hotels.

My host parents offered to host our group on our journey's last leg – after visiting relatives north of Trondheim and before we depart from the Oslo airport. Should we decide to take the train from Trondheim south, my host dad offered four options for pickup:
1. In Lillehammer: the site of the 1994 Olympic games
2. In Hamar
3. In Lillestrøm
4. In Oslo.

A third email came today from relatives living in the Grandma Lena's childhood house in Verdal. The husband of Lena's great-niece answered an email I'd sent asking for local agents with rental mini-vans. He kindly provided websites, email addresses and telephone numbers for three.

Now it's my turn to research and e-mail on!

Confirmation

2008-03-17T15:19:00.018-05:00

Last Wednesday morning I called the airline to book our tickets for an 11-day tour in mid-August, flying into Bergen and out of Oslo with stop-overs – both ways – in Iceland.

The airline agent suggested seating the six of us together across the center aisle. But because the ladies had requested cruise cabins "with a view," I asked the airline agent for window seats too. She booked us in the same two rows of three – one behind the other in the window aisle – for all four flights. So, we should have no trouble remembering where we sit.

Next, I contacted the cruise agent to book three-days on the Hurtigruten, boarding in Bergen and departing in Trondheim. The agent set us up with "port-hole" window cabins for our port-to-port venture and gave us a money-saving deal for booking three cabins!

Because our voyage is on a north-bound ship, we will cruise through the dramatic Geiranger Fjord shown here. Years ago, I took this photo of my husband to fulfill his 30th birthday wish of having his photo taken on this renown ledge over-looking the village of Geiranger. We did two shoots: one on a gray-afternoon and this one the next morning when the sun came out and a cruise ship sailed in. This time the ladies and I will be on the ship!

Today, I have notices from Icelandair and Hurtigruten of ticket Confirmation. Let the count-down begin!

Divine Intervention

2008-03-10T23:00:00.002-05:00

Time was ticking. My husband was on my case to book the tickets. I explained that the financial means was on its way. The credit card agent had said, "Look for your card – in a white envelope with an Omaha return address – on or around March 24th."

That date was three weeks away when I'd applied last week... But who knew whether our travel ticket prices or availability would hold until the card's arrival.

Today, I called the airline and cruise agents to verify prices and availability. The agents suggested putting a courtesy hold on the tickets until Wednesday. That would give me time to contact the ladies with information and gain other information to secure the tickets.

Wednesday... I thought. But my card won't be here for two more weeks. I wrote emails and telephoned one of the gals to explain the ticket hold and ask for advice about billing. After contacting the others, she called me back with the news to book the tickets and their preparations to mail out checks to me.

Late this afternoon, I walked to the mailbox, picked out newspapers and thumbed through envelopes, including a white one with an Omaha return address. I slit open the envelope and removed a card imprinted with my name. Tears streamed from my eyes. The financial means had arrived two weeks early – and most certainly – by Divine Intervention.

Financier

2008-03-03T15:10:00.001-06:00

Researching, planning and mapping out a trip for six is one thing. Booking tickets is another.

How does one private person handle finances for five other people? The airline and cruise agents suggested my gathering credit card numbers from each person to book that person's part of the trip; or having each person call with her own information; or putting everything on one credit card.

I didn't feel comfortable asking other people for their credit card numbers. I also knew that having each person call to book her own airline ticket would add extra fees vs. one fee for booking six tickets together. Plus some of the ladies didn't have reliable computer access to receive e-tickets. The ladies responded: "If you're willing to book it all on your card, we'll send you our checks."

I was willing. My question was HOW?

How many people have available a five-digit credit-card-limit balance? Not me: a stay-home mom who manages the house, the kids, the pets, the activities, the bills, the mail...

Flipping through the mail last week, I noticed a credit card solicitation. Usually I throw those envelopes directly in the trash. Who wants to manage more than one card's debt? Right?

What caught my eye on this one was "0% APR for 15 months on purchases" written in bold blue print on the envelope front.

"There's got to be some catch," I thought as I opened the envelope and perused the papers. I called the toll-free number to ask if this REALLY meant I could make purchases, make NO payments until next year and have NO interest charges as long as the full amount I charged to the card is paid in full by that 2009 due date. The agent said, "Yes, ma'am. That's what 0% APR for 15 months means."

"Wow," I said. She took my application information, processed the information and recited my five-digit credit-card limit – just enough to finance a Norway trip for six. I said, "That's a gift from heaven."

Now I felt like a travel agent capable of providing the service of Financier.

Correspondence

2008-02-28T15:18:00.013-06:00

Once the ladies revealed their enthusiasm for the flight and cruise plans, I began writing letters and emails to my Norwegian contacts letting them know the basic outline and intended dates for our tour as well as asking for suggestions to make our short time in these regions well-spent.

Earlier this month while visiting a relative, I spied an ancient photo of Grandma Lena's children. I snapped a photo of the photo. Back home, I designed a card – using the image – to send our Norway relatives. Inside, I wrote that representatives of each of these three little girls' families (their brother had no offspring) would be on their way in August to see the Homeland.

Anticipating the Norwegians' replies is the flip-side of Correspondence.

Persistence

2008-02-27T12:28:00.007-06:00

"Continuing steadily despite problems or obstacles" is the dictionary's definition for "persistence."

As I've searched for ways to book the sailing part of our journey on the Hurtigruten, I've encountered obstacles. Dan helped me find a company online that listed voyage packages worldwide including this one along the Norwegian coast.

For most people, calling a phone number would be easy. I hesitated knowing our needs would have to be tailored for a port-to-port trip rather than the more-common, full-coastline trip. Last week I found an extraordinary package deal at the company's online site. The "sale" spurred me to dial the number.

The first representative had no clue to which I "deal" I was referring. He passed me off to an international representative who understood the advertisement, listened to my needs and promptly told me, this "sale" would not apply for us. He also informed me even a short cruise on this ship would be expensive. I asked whether he knew of an American booking agent who could help us book port-to-port. When he said: I don't think that's possible."

I explained, "I KNOW it's possible because my host parents have all ridden the Hurtigruten and told me local people get on in one city and off in another regularly."

"Well, we are a booking agent for Hurtigruten," he said. "I can call ask."

"Thank you!" I sighed. At last I'd found someone with the resources to help.

Later in the day, he called back with the desired information. He verified information from the sailing charts I'd pulled up months earlier. We would board 8 PM Thursday in Bergen and arrive 8 AM Saturday in Trondheim. He quoted the cost and added, "Because you're not traveling the full distance, meals are not included. The Hurtigruten people said to plan about $100 per day for food on the ship: $20 for breakfast, $20-30 for lunch and $50 for dinner."

"Since we sail Saturday night and arrive early Saturday, I said, "We can figure just one day of meals and catch the dinner on Thursday night and breakfast on Saturday morning on shore. Right?"

"You could," he said beginning to understand my genuine enthusiasm. He told me because our trip was so short, we wouldn't be assigned cabins until we boarded. Priority goes to those going the full distance.

"Fine with me," I said. "I'll check with the ladies and get back to you." In order to send me more information, he took my email address. He recognized the MN city in the address and confessed Minnesota as his home state. Now we had a "Minnesota Nice" connection.

And – yes – Persistence.

Faith

2008-02-24T15:24:00.004-06:00

The most incredible part of planning falls in the lap of Faith – to find contacts.

Two weeks ago Dan found a 1-800-number for Icelandair. With that phone contact, I discovered two important components. First, the company offers flights to Bergen two days a week during the summer – Tuesday and Friday evenings. Second, the company offers a multi-city ticket enabling us to fly into Bergen and out of Oslo. All this for the lowest price of any airline competitor.

Both the Tuesday and Friday flights arrive in Iceland about 6 AM, the next day. Wednesday's arrival has an 11-hour layover before taking off for Bergen. The Icelandair saleswoman said customers could leave the airport for a look around Reykjavik to see the geothermal hot springs among other things. Wednesday's departure for Bergen is after 5 PM arriving about 9:30 PM. Then we would stay over in a hotel, have time to rest Thursday morning, spend the afternoon looking around Norway's second largest city and depart that evening on the Hurtigruten cruise line to take us to Trondheim.

With a Saturday arrival, the flight departs a couple hours later for Bergen. Landing in Bergen happens mid-afternoon. With this option we could take a quick look passing through the city and depart on the ship that same evening. Or we could check into a hotel and have a day-and-half city tour and leave with the ship Sunday.

Personally, I favor the Tuesday departure which would allow for a look around Reykjavik Wednesday, put us in a Bergen hotel that night through Thursday morning, allow us to explore Bergen during the afternoon and evening and have us launched on the ship that night.

Why? Months ago, I pulled up north sailing charts for the Hurtigruten. I learned the ship sails daily from Bergen at 8 PM, continues northward through another day and arrives the following morning at 8 AM in Trondheim. Given this this schedule, if we launched with the Thursday ship, we would arrive Saturday in Trondheim. That would allow us to travel to Grandma Lena's relatives during the weekend – usually a good time to visit people.

The next step is finding a phone contact for the cruiseline... preferably an American agent.

Consideration

2008-02-21T21:51:00.007-06:00

I am not a Travel Agent. For four months I've tried to find "deals" to Norway. It's not an easy task given the travel routes we're considering.

At our initial meeting in July, we considered a thrify trip: flying round trip from Minneapolis to Olso, renting a van, navigating ourselves over the Norwegian countryside, stopping at camping huts along the way to meet relatives and friends, stopping for historical and scenic view points from Oslo north to Trondheim and Verdal and then beginning a southeastern journey over the mountains through Lillehammer and down into Hedmark County to the Swedish border south of Kongsvinger and back to Oslo to fly home again. We considered: one night's hotel stay as a treat.

That plan changed in September. My Norwegian host parents came to visit me here in Minnesota. They told me if I were to lead Americans through their country, I would be doing them a disservice if I did not show them the West Coast. They recommended beginning in Bergen, taking the Hurtigruten Cruise ship to Trondheim, finding transport to Verdal to see Grandma Lena's homestead and people and then coming south to see them on the Swedish border before heading to Oslo for a capitol tour and returning home.

Either route falls under Independent Travel. But the latter is far more challenging to coordinate. Oh, travel agents will tell you they can help you book... but when it comes down to the nuts and bolts of the plan, I've found they fall back on their own airline preferences (not always the most thrifty or convenient) and also want fees up front for research as well as to book various portions of the trip. Economizing this kind of a tour is difficult even with a group – albeit a small one of six.

My quest has been to get a price quote out to our group to decide whether our "Tri-City Dream Tour" is one to pursue.

Anticipation

2008-02-21T12:54:00.004-06:00

All talk and no action frustrates my husband. That's why he paired me up with his father's cousins to make a trip to Norway.

I'd longed to make a trip back to my adopted home. These women dreamed of visiting their immigrant (great) grandmother's roots.

At a cafe meeting last July, we began to plan for a 10-12 day trip in August 2008. Their main goal was to travel north of Trondheim to the small community of Verdal – where Grandma Lena's life started – a place and people that Dan and I had visited years ago. Dan's cousins hoped to see mountains and fjords, tour a big city or two and travel to the Swedish border where I'd spent a year living as a high-school exchange student. Our mutual enthusiasm was catchy.

With that consensus and my husband's promise for me to lead the group, we were Norway Bound.